Service 01

Boiler repair in London

No heat or hot water? We diagnose the fault on site and tell you what it costs before anything is fitted.

Service overview

Boiler repair is the job we get called out for most. A lockout, a leak or a boiler that will not fire usually needs someone on site the same day rather than a week of phone calls.

We diagnose the fault first, explain what has failed and what it takes to put right, then fit parts you have agreed to. If a repair is not worth doing on an old appliance we will say so rather than sell you a part that buys three months.

Most domestic boilers in London are combis under 30kW, and most of what stops them is a short list: pressure loss, a failed expansion vessel, a stuck diverter valve, a blocked condensate or an ignition fault. None of those need a new boiler.

We work across Greater London and north Surrey, including Croydon, Bromley, Sutton, Orpington and Wimbledon. Gas Safe engineers do every gas job. See the gallery, about us or get in touch.

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WHAT'S INCLUDED
Emergency boiler repair
No heat and no hot water diagnosis
Lockouts and fault codes
Pressure loss and leak tracing
Expansion vessel and PRV replacement
Pump, fan and diverter valve faults
Frozen and blocked condensate pipes

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Jobs are fulfilled by independently vetted Gas Safe engineers. How we work

Signs you need boiler repair

  • No heat and no hot water, with a code on the display
  • Pressure gauge sitting below 0.7 bar, or climbing above 2.5 bar when hot
  • Boiler fires then cuts out after a few seconds
  • Hot water works but the radiators stay cold
  • Water dripping from the bottom of the case or from the pressure relief pipe outside
  • Banging or kettling from the boiler when it fires

What usually goes wrong

A sealed heating system should sit at roughly 1.0 to 1.5 bar when cold. Below about 0.7 bar most boilers lock out on low pressure and refuse to fire. Sometimes that is a genuine leak, and sometimes it is an expansion vessel that has lost its air charge, which makes the pressure swing high when hot and low when cold. Those two faults look identical on the gauge and need completely different work, so the vessel gets checked before anyone starts hunting for a leak.

The other common group is ignition. The boiler tries to light, fails to prove a flame, and locks out. That can be the electrode, the gas valve, a blocked flue or a condensate pipe that has frozen and backed up. Condensate blockages spike every winter because the pipe often runs outside in 22mm plastic when it should have been sleeved or run internally.

Repair or replace

The honest test is the cost of the part against the age and condition of the appliance. A ten-year-old boiler needing a fan and a gas valve on the same visit is usually worth replacing. A six-year-old boiler needing a pressure relief valve is worth repairing without question.

Manufacturer warranties run between five and twelve years on new installs, but they are conditional on a documented annual service. If your boiler is still inside its warranty period, tell us before we start — the fault may be the manufacturer's to fix, and we would rather point you at that than charge you for it.

Common fault codes

If your boiler is showing a code, read it out when you call. It usually tells us which parts to put on the van.

CodeMakeWhat it meansWhere we start
F.22VaillantLow water pressure, or a dry fire conditionCheck for a leak, then test whether the expansion vessel is holding its charge before repressurising
F.75VaillantPump or pressure sensor faultCommon straight after a filter clean or a drain-down; usually air in the pump head or a failed sensor
F.28VaillantIgnition failure — the boiler never proves a flameGas supply, electrode and gas valve checked in that order
EAWorcester BoschFlame loss or ignition lockoutElectrode gap, condensate blockage, or gas supply pressure at the appliance
C6Worcester BoschFan fault — fan speed outside the expected rangeFan, wiring or the air pressure switch
E9 / D5Worcester BoschOverheat — the primary is getting too hotUsually poor circulation: a stuck pump, a closed valve or a sludged heat exchanger
F1IdealLow water pressureSame route as F.22 — find the reason before topping up
L2IdealIgnition lockoutFlame sensing, gas supply or a blocked condensate
E119BaxiLow system pressureLeak test, then expansion vessel charge

How the visit goes

01

Tell us the code

If there is a code on the display, read it out when you call. It often tells us which parts to bring.

02

Diagnose on site

Gas pressure, system pressure, flue integrity and the actual fault, before anything is quoted.

03

Agree the work

You get the cost of the repair and the honest repair-or-replace view before a single part is fitted.

04

Test and leave it working

Combustion checked, pressure set, and the system run up to temperature before we go.

Standards this work is held to

Gas Safe Register

Only a Gas Safe registered engineer may legally work on a gas appliance. The register replaced CORGI in April 2009.

Nominal working pressure 20 mbar

Natural gas at the appliance inlet should run at about 20 mbar under load. A boiler starved of gas will lock out and keep locking out until that is fixed.

Benchmark

Warranty claims usually depend on a completed Benchmark commissioning record and a documented annual service.

Boiler repair: common questions

Either the system is losing water somewhere, or the expansion vessel has lost its air charge. Both show up as low pressure on the gauge. We test the vessel first, because repressurising a system with a flat vessel just means you do it again next week.
Usually, yes. Call 07512 919899 with the make, model and any code on the display and we will tell you honestly whether we can get to you today.
It depends what has failed. A single inexpensive part on a boiler that is otherwise sound is worth doing. Two major components in one visit on a ten-year-old appliance usually is not, and we will tell you that rather than take the work.
It is failing to prove a flame, so the boiler shuts down on safety. Common causes are a dirty or worn ignition electrode, a gas supply problem, or a condensate pipe that has blocked or frozen.
Often yes, by pouring warm — not boiling — water along the outside section of pipe and resetting the boiler. If it keeps happening the pipe wants re-routing or lagging properly, which is worth doing once rather than every cold snap.
You get the call-out and diagnosis position on the phone before we come out, so there is no surprise. The repair itself is quoted on site once we know what has actually failed.
Call the manufacturer first if the appliance is in warranty and you have your annual services documented. There is no sense paying us for something they are contracted to fix.
On a combi that usually points at the diverter valve, which is stuck on the hot water side. It can also be a seized pump or a failed thermostat, so it gets tested rather than assumed.
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